As the yoga capital of South India and the birthplace of Ashtanga yoga, Mysore (Mysuru) belongs on every yogis bucket list. This charming city is home to many renowned yoga teachers and schools, and an ideal place for both beginners and advanced practitioners to deepen their practice.
While Sri K. Pattabhi Jois, the founder of Ashtanga, first put Mysore on the map for international yogis when he founded the Ashtanga Yoga School in 1948, today practitioners come to practice everything from hatha to aerial yoga. You’ll find sound healing, Thai yoga massage, and Pranayama courses here, along with many other offerings. Of course, Ashtanga is still the main draw, so before the sun rises Mysore yogis can be seen getting their sleepy ass-anas out of bed and heading to the shala to practice.
While I am not a student of Ashtanga yoga by any means, I decided to spend a week learning more about this practice while traveling through India. I stayed at a shala and practiced Ashtanga, Mysore-style, in the morning for around two hours. While I’ve practiced other styles of yoga for some years and feel fairly fit, I was shocked at how hard I found (and still find) Ashtanga. It felt like waking up and heading into a fiery inferno each morning, drowning in my own sweat, taking backbend after backbend, and then somehow ending up on my back in Shavasana. But wow, nothing beats the energy in a Mysore room!
A week is not long, and I’m only beginning my Ashtanga journey, but I learned so much during the time in Mysore and fell in love with the city itself. Since it can be difficult to find information about a place before visiting, this guide is to help anyone (yogi or otherwise) make the most of their time in Mysore. Keep reading for recommendations on where to practice, eat, caffeinate, and visit.
The Best Yoga Shalas in Mysore
There are apparently over 300 yoga shalas in Mysore. If you have the time, I would recommend visiting a few in person once you’re there and seeing which teacher or place you connect with most before committing to a month-long course or training. Here are just a few of the ones I can recommend from either my own experience or word of mouth.
1. KPJAYI Shala
Also known as the main shala, this is where K. Pattabhi Jois taught after moving the institute from Lakshmipuram to Gokulam in 2002. Following his death, his daughter R. Saraswathi Jois, leads the classes here while her daughter Sharmila does hands-on assists. It’s basically the most well-known place to practice Ashtanga in Mysore, but that doesn’t mean it’s necessarily the best. KPJAYI is, however, the official institute in Mysore where Ashtanga teachers can get authorized and certified. To study here, you will need to apply online at least two weeks in advance and complete the thorough registration process.
2. Shtalam8
Shtalam8 is where I practiced Ashtanga while in Mysore, and I can definitely recommend it! I was a little intimidated on my first day walking into the shala, as it was filled with the most hardcore yogis I’ve ever seen. (Some students were so flexible it looked like they didn’t have any bones in their body). Many students have been practicing with the teacher, Ajay Kumar, for years, and it shows. However, everyone was friendly and it was a nice community, with regular dinners and socializing in the shala cafe after practice. There are also chanting sessions, karma yoga, and a weekly yoga conference in addition to the morning practices.
While Ajay Kumar is a popular and well-known teacher, he is still able to offer personalized attention and time to his students. He could often get firey during practice, and it wasn’t unusual to hear him yell out feedback to the advanced students, like, “Not so curvy, Ricardo!” or “The left Erin, the left!” He told me that I need to first walk to the mountain before I start climbing it, (the mountain being Ashtanga, I guess), and so I was happy to embrace being a beginner during the time I was there. No drop backs for me yet!
One of the yogi friends I met in Mysore was doing a course at this popular shala, and had nothing but good things to say about the experience. The teacher, Dr. Srinatha, learned and practiced with the renowned BKS Iyengar, and he focuses on precise, alignment-based hatha yoga, using lots of props to help all bodies feel their best in a posture. The studio, which has a nice vibe, offers teacher trainings, along with daily yin, Ashtanga, and aerial yoga drop-in classes.
4. Kurma Shala
This is another popular yoga shala offering challenging hatha classes for yoga practitioners and teachers, along with Thai massage, flow arts, and trainings. It’s located just across the street from KPJAYI in Gokulam, although they are reopening at a new location in May 2025. Unfortunately I didn’t get the time to attend a drop-in class here, but the teacher, Chandraprakash Naidu, seems to have a great teaching style (based on his Instagram) and also offers online classes.
At the beautiful Prana Vashya shala, breath is the most important thing. Founded by master yoga teacher Vinay Kumar, the Prana Vashya yoga method is composed of a unique (and challenging) sequence of asanas that encourages connection with the breath. Incidentally, Vinay’s brother, Vijay, is another well-known Ashtanga teacher in Mysore. A friend I met in Mysore was taking classes with Vinay and was enjoying them, despite feeling a bit sore.
The Best Restaurants, Cafes, and Bakeries in Mysore
To say I ate well in Mysore is an understatement. I still daydream about the piping hot, perfectly spiced chai and the thick, flavorful layer of tomato and ricotta cheese on the sourdough toast at SAPA. Words can’t describe the deliciousness. Here are just a few restaurants, cafes, and bakeries to check out during your time in Mysore.
1. Minimal
This is one of the main meeting hubs in the Gokulam neighborhood, and you’ll see groups of people sitting outside and chatting with coffee at all times of the day. It’s located just around the corner from KPJAYI, so many people come here after practice in the morning. Lured by the really, really good coffee and people watching, I took a rickshaw over here a couple times after my morning class. It’s a nice spot for meeting fellow yogis and interesting people. They also serve matcha, tea, and pastries.
2. SAPA
I heard a lot of hype about this bakery while in Mysore, but only made it over in my last couple of days. Happily, the hype is well-deserved, and I chowed down on some of the best baked goods I’ve had in my life (no joke). They had a hazelnut brownie thing that literally changed me. Add in the delicious sourdough bread, juice, and coffee, and you’re in for a treat. Whether you want to stop by for a snack or a full meal with friends, the menu has you covered. The outdoor pond is the perfect place to relax and spot some sparkling dragonflies.
This is a relatively new bakery specializing in viennoiserie and Jewish pastries. The owner, Raquel, moved to Mysore from Guatemala, and has a strong tradition of baking in her family. Apparently the bakery is always changing up their menu, so you can expect a surprising (yet tasty) array of pastries when you visit.
4. Mylari Dosa
No trip to Mysore is complete without a trip to this institution. After sitting down at one of the tables, you’ll be served melt in-your-mouth dosa that tastes fresh and soft yet crispy in all the right places. Mmm! If you like dosa, another good place to try out in Mysore is Mulbagal Dosa Corner.
This is a tasty vegetarian cafe in the Gokulam area serving healthy green smoothies, freshly baked bread, and entrées like sandwiches, burgers, pizza, and pasta. It will take a minute to peruse the drink menu, which has delicious masala chai, coffee, and fresh juices. This was a nice, laid-back spot for an after-practice snack.
If you have some time to spare in Gokulam while waiting for a class or training session to start, stop by Books & Brews. This cozy little library was started from the homeowner’s garage, and you can browse through the shelves, which have everything from fantasy novels to classic texts on yoga philosophy. If you need a brew to pair with your book, they have coffee and tea available to purchase. I loved spending time here reading. If you’re a Mysore local, you can sign up for a membership and check out the books to read at home, just like in a normal library.
This is a popular little spot for locals and visitors alike. They serve Mumbai street food, like moutherwatering chaats, pav bhaji, and parathas, along with a variety of sweet treats. It’s no frills and self-service, but the food is really something special!
This is another vegetarian cafe in Gokulam (I couldn’t get enough, okay?) popular with yogis. Everything is delicious here, and the owner really takes his time to make each dish to perfection. The smoothies were a favorite, as well as the Shiitake mushroom and vegetable bowl. This was the first spot I went to in Mysore, and I enjoyed that it felt relatively calm and quiet.
If you’re around KPJAYI, this place is worth a visit. The name is a cheeky phrase attributed to K. Pattabhi Jois, who used to serve his Ashtanga students coffee with cream before practice. This little cafe serves coffee, along with chai, milkshakes, juice, sweets, ragi wraps, dosa, and more. While I wouldn’t say it’s a must-visit, it’s a cozy place to sit and people watch before or after class.
10. Hills Special Momos
Someone recommended this spot to me, noting they just had “really good momos on Kalidasa Road.” This is another place I sadly didn’t have time to visit, but damn, the pictures of their momos look amazing and they have pretty good reviews. How can one ever say no to momos?
Honorable Mentions
- RRR: Specializes in chicken and mutton biryani and Andhra veg dishes.
- Mezzaluna: Offers continental cuisine.
- TKS Iyengar: Serves puliogare, bisibelebath, and local foods.
- Healthy Hut: Delicious millet-based food.
- Halli Hatti: Near the beautiful Chamundi Hill.
- Organic Cafe and Bakehouse: Yummy and healthy food, baked goods, and drinks.
- Simply Kodavas: Authentic Coorgi cuisine.
- Hotel Hanumathu Original: Serves an iconic palav.
- Purohit Restaurant: Unlimited Gujarati meals.
- Oyster Bay: Fancy ambience with delicious food.
- SPR Veg Restaurant: South Indian breakfast and banana leaf lunch.
The Best Sightseeing Spots in Mysore
1. Chamundi Hill
Famous for the iconic Shri Chamundeshwari Devi Temple that sits atop its peak, Chamundi Hill is a picturesque spot to visit during your time in Mysore. From the top, you can see panoramic views of the city and surrounding area. There are also some food vendors and market stalls. You can take a rickshaw up, although I’d recommend taking the marked trail for a morning hike.
If you’re into temple-hopping, there are so many to check out in and around Mysore. One suggestion is Somnathpur Temple.
2. Mysore Palace
Known for its opulent interiors and stunning architecture, Mysore Palace is another must-visit. Not only is there a jewel-encrusted golden throne and elephant seat inside, but on Sundays and public holidays the palace exterior is lit up with 97,000 twinkling lights. Talk about a photo op!
3. Kukkarahalli Lake
Nature lovers, head to peaceful Kukkarahalli Lake. This is a little oasis of green and blue in the middle of the city, perfect for a morning walk or jog. You can spot wildlife here, including birds and crocodiles. Although, be sure to check the opening hours before you go. Strangely, the first time I went around 4pm, the park gates were closed. It seems the park is open in the morning and then in the late afternoon until 7pm, but don’t quote me on this.
If you’re looking for more nature escapes, you can also check out Ranganathittu Bird Sanctuary.
4. Devaraja Market
Centrally located in the city, this is a crowded market with everything you could want and plenty of things you definitely don’t want. I was on the hunt for some special purses, and the hunt led me through countless winding rows of stalls selling everything from spices, fruits, and veggies to clothes and flower garlands. At one point, I walked out the back and was greeted by beheaded chickens dangling from the top of one stall, and I quickly turned back around. Eek! Finally, the purses were found and I left the hustle and bustle.
5. Southern Star Hotel
So, Southern Star Hotel is not exactly the place to be in Mysore, BUT they do have something amazing: an outdoor swimming pool available for day-use. For the fee of 600 INR, you can lounge by the pool all afternoon, cool off with a swim, and soak up the relaxing atmosphere. It’s the perfect escape when you’re craving a little respite from the busy city on hot days.
The Best Places to Stay in Mysore
Gokulam is the yoga neighborhood of Mysore. Most yoga schools and trainings are located here, and there are many nice coffee shops, restaurants, and accommodations in the area. I would definitely recommend spending some (although not all) of your time here! With that said, I stayed in the Lakshmipuram neighborhood, and it seemed to have a more local and authentic vibe than Gokulam, which I’ve heard compared to the Beverly Hills of India.
While I didn’t stay at Anokhi, I did visit it for a lovely dinner and kirtan night. This guesthouse regularly hosts events and yoga classes. Some people I met were guests, and had nothing but good things to say about their stay. The soothing cafe is also the perfect place to while away an afternoon, meet interesting people, and sip delicious smoothies.
2. Your Yoga Shala
If you’re heading to Mysore for a yoga course or training, your school will likely offer accommodation or recommend an inexpensive place to stay. For example, my school had rooms for students that cost around $10 per night. Since the shala was just downstairs, I didn’t have to travel far to practice in the morning and there was also a cafe with the most delicious masala chai. I still dream about it.
3. Air Bnb
You’ve probably heard of Air Bnb before, and this app makes it easy to find places to stay that have good reviews and hosts. However, I will note that Air Bnb tends to be far more expensive than other accommodation options in Mysore. If you’re not limited in terms of budget, you can find really nice places to stay on this platform.
4. Just find a place once you arrive
This is probably the most budget-friendly and flexible option. If I return to Mysore, I plan to book an Air Bnb or guesthouse for the first two nights, and then find an affordable place to stay upon arrival. Just a short stroll around Gokulam will take you past many signs offering nice rooms available for long-term rent. You can check the rooms out in person and see if you like them before committing to anything. Easy peasy!
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